Beyond serving as a tourist attraction, the hills of Shai Hills in the Greater Accra Region hold significant historical and cultural landmarks for the Dangme-Shai people.
In ancient times, hills like Manyayo, Weisayo, Hieowayo, Sayu Cave, Adwuku Cave and Mogo Hill served as both homes and sacred sites for their gods, war preparations, protection and age-old rituals like the Dipo rites.
The Mirror explores the rich histories and cultural heritage of three of these hills -Hieowayo, Sayu Cave and Mogo Hill- as narrated by a tour guide, Kwame Asamoah-Boateng Oppong, during a recent hiking expedition.
He doubles as an Assistant Manager with the Tourism and Public Relations unit of the Forestry Commission, Shai Hills Resource Centre.
Mr Oppong noted that ‘yo’ means hill or mountain in the Dangme language. Shai Hills is celebrated for its hills, medicinal trees and wildlife spanning approximately 51 square kilometres.
Narrating their history, Mr Oppong explained that the Shai people, whose name is a variation of the original word ‘S3’, are believed to have migrated from southeastern Nigeria ((Ile Ife) and share ancestry with the Ga people.
“There are two theories about their migration. Some believe they arrived by boat along the coast and then split into various groups.
Others think they came by land, settled in a place called ‘Lolovo’, which means ‘there is no more love’, and then dispersed,” he explained.
Hieowayo
The tour guide noted that Hieowayo was the highest hill in the Shai Hills Reserve, standing at 290 metres above sea level, with a 600-metre, 45-minute hiking trail.
The people of Doryumu and Dodowa trace their ancestry to those who settled on Hieowayo, evidenced by grinding areas, stone terraces and baobab trees along the trail.
These stone terraces were used for creating flat platforms for building houses or agriculture. Initially, the Shai people were hunter-gatherers until later when they adopted agriculture.
We learnt that Hieowayo had some ties to the colonial era, serving as a lookout point for British forces to monitor local tribes, traders and possible attackers.
Mr Oppong added that, the Shai people were seen as trouble makers by the colonial government because of their involvement in wars in the past.
“The Poll Tax Ordinance of 1852 was a Tax the Shai people refused to pay creating enimity between the British and them,” he added.
Today, remnants of old watch posts and structures still exist, highlighting the hill’s strategic importance. Caves within the hill also served as a fortress for the Shai people, providing refuge during conflicts and storage for food and valuables.
Walking through these caves, the tour group could almost hear the echoes of the past, imagining the lives of those who sought safety there. Archaeological finds like pottery, grinding stools, carved tree works and tools tell the story of a resilient and skilled community.
“Adansonia Digitata”, the scientific name for the baobab tree (used in treating fever, Dysentery, malaria, etc.) and the Diospyros mespiliformis, thus the African Ebony Tree (used as a form of anagesic and antipyretic) are some peculiar trees on this mountain.
Sayu Cave
Mr Oppong, who holds a degree in Tourism and Marketing from the Kwame Nkrumah University of Science and Technology (KNUST), explained that ‘Sɛ Yo’ (Shai Hills) has also been corrupted to ‘Sayu.’
He said Sayu Cave has a 200-metres trail and is about 120 metres above sea level, with its caves serving as the palace of the Ancestral Tribal Chief of the Shai people.
He added that the people of Kordiabe trace their ancestry to the Sayu Cave.
The cave has three chambers: the first with stone terraces (for offensive and defenses purposes), the second as the chief’s palace or court, and the third as his living quarters and a hideout during wars.
He noted that it held deep spiritual significance as the abode of ancestors, where traditional rituals are performed, especially during the Ngmayem festival. The cave was heavily guarded, with specific entry rituals to ensure safety.
“If anyone were to enter, they had to put a leaf in their mouths, then enter with their backs so they could tell if anyone had followed the person in,” he added.
The ancient narrow caves also provided a sanctuary and a secure hiding place for women and children during conflict.
Taking about 20 minutes to hike the cave, the trail was adorned with traditional symbols and markers, guiding visitors through a journey rich in cultural heritage.
Our guide noted that in the past, a natural rope known as ‘fiscus abutifolia’ was used to climb the caves to a lookout point referred to as a ‘watch tower’.
Mogo Hill
Mr Oppong also briefed The Mirror about the Mogo Hill, about 60 metres above sea level. According to him, it was also the site where training for the Dipo rites for young girls were performed.
Although now less frequent, our guide told us that the Dipo rites remain a significant coming-of-age ceremony for Shai girls, marking their transition into womanhood with traditional practices, teachings on womanhood, responsibility and social roles, as well as dance, music and the adornment of initiates in beads and cloth.
He explained that back then, these rites were performed on 18-year-old and above virgin girls.
“They would be camped and trained for six months before out-doored bare-chested in the community, blessed and recognised as women eligible for marriage,” he added.
He said the Dipo rites were now being performed for much younger girls, from ages seven, and they are not trained for six months.
Shai Hills Reserve
Wildlife observed during our June 2024 visit included antelopes, baboons, snakes, ostriches, zebras and diverse bird species.
According to our guide, the fear of encroachment looms as more settlements and businesses crop up. He entreated authorities to help in the territorial fencing of the reserve.
